Summary This version improves the precision of cutting files and includes fixes for problems introduced by macOS Sierra. Changelog.
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Improved alignment of top and bottom cuts when creating cutting files. Improved cut precision near nose and tail. Improved cutter connections between cuts.
Improved local number formatting in the Dimensions panel. Added the option to save a local zip file of a problem report if the user is not connected to the internet. Added widened flip assist cuts. Moved tail chop cut up to the end of the board.
Removed tail feather. Bug Fixes. Bay window remaining permanently visible in macOS Sierra. Some key commands not being supported in macOS Sierra. Problem report submission hanging due to connection problems. Fixed a bug that disabled angel wings.
Summary This version improves interface usability, designer control over the machine an important bug fixes. Changelog. Enabled tabbing through fields in Machine Parameters Panel and Board Info panel. Expanded allowed strut height range.
Moved controller, machine length fields to machine settings column. Modified Make File button actions to:. notify user that a board must be open if it's not, and then stops. validates parameters, notifies user of problems and stops if there are any. if parameters are valid. copies these into the current board file.
writes the machine file. Expanded range of stringer double cut depth to 40 mm (was 20 mm). Changed bad strut position warning message: changed special feature code values for MSS import/export and Preferences import/export. Added warning message if an Aku controller and board struts are not exactly height. Changed bad strut dialog text. Added 'overwrite' confirmation prompt when saving to an MSS that already exists. Removed 'n' from 'Make File' confirmation message.
Improved error handling when strut location is not under blank. use MSS button now also applies MSS values to currently open board. Changed default angel wing angle from and def.
Angel wing distance. Changed default machine length from 0 to 300.
Added angel wing tooltips to the labels as well as the text fields. Decreased minimum allowed angel wing angle to 25 degrees.
'Save As' file dialog now shows files in directory. Synchronized machine length with displayed GUI value. Improved clarity of in-app support text. Improved installation process with faster download and automatic 32/64-bit java detection. Bug Fixes. Some board files in windows explorer would not lunch AKUshaper on double click. Some board files in windows explorer did not have the bird icon.
Contains a readme file describing the use of arlsumstat, a specific console version of Arlequin producing summary statistics into a single output file. Here is also a link on the to download R if you want to be able to generate graphics from Arlequin XML output files. This topic is not covered in the Arlequin manual. Manuals and readme files Contains the latest Arlequin manual (ver 3.5) describing all new routines and graphical outputs Contains a readme file describing the use of arlecore, the console version of Arlequin. Arlequin software. Contains examples of arlequin projects.
Problem reporting either hung or failed. Removed message notifying users of new machines that large top rail angles no longer set bottom rail cuts to zero. For old machine users, disabled action setting bot. Rail cuts to zero, and it's user warning message. Corrected tail stop positioning.
Corrected condition that caused filenames to be truncated. Summary This version adds the ability to slide the board back and forth in the bay. You can zoom in as if you had your nose right to the board and move from nose to tail. If you slide the board into the wall you get a great cross section view. Changelog. Enhanced the 3D Bay to slide the board horizontally.
This offers the shaper the experience of seeing the board at eye level as it changes from nose to tail. Use the 'a' and 'd' keys for keyboard use or the sliding dial. OBJ file format export for heavyweight subscribers. (File - Export). Adopted Mac App Store entitlements. Soon the app and updates will be published automatically through the Mac App Store.
New PDF printout for full sized printing for upandcomer and above subscribers. Summary This release fixes an issue where the bay would freeze with certain boards, and also includes a number of general fixes. See the changelog for the full list. We've been seeing a lot of busted boards recently - if you've been having issues with the bay please see the page below for general design advice and things to watch for: Changelog. Added password reset button to login prompt. Added link to youtube tutorials page to login prompt and help menu. Fixed issue causing bay to freeze up with certain boards.
Now includes warning with link to help page. Fixed issue with using periods in filenames. Fixed red font issue in pdfs.
Fixed issue with extra Z resetting to -1 in machine parameters panel. Known Issues The following issues have been found and are being fixed in the next release:. Width isn't updating when scaled Summary The latest release of Aku Shaper includes support for reading.s3dx files, a new rail editing feature, and a number of little fixes.
Lots to enjoy in this one. See the changelog for more details and links to video overviews. Big props out to Thomas at Shape3d and Francisco Flores for all their help on this one.
Changelog. Added ability to open.s3dx files. Please upgrade to Shape3d X 9.0.7.1 if you're using an older version. Added new rail editing feature. More to come on this one. Added ability to see the lower rail line in the bay.
Toggled on and off using the spacebar just like all the other curves. Changed open and save dirs to be remembered separately (per Biolos). Changed slice constraints. First tangent can now be used to easily create double concaves.
Changed zoom increments in bay to be much finer using the keyboard shortcuts. Fixed point drawing to always draw blue points on top of the red and yellow ones.
Fixed point selection to always select blue point first. Fixed issue with dead points causing the bay to crash and added a new autocollapse feature. See. Fixed multiple toolpath issues related to specific tail shapes and bottom transitions.
Aku Shaper is a Photo & Image software developed by Aku Shaper Team. After our trial and test, the software is proved to be official, secure and free. Here is the official description for Aku Shaper: BS Editor: With tens of thousands of users and over 70 shaping machines world wide, the Aku (formerly APS3000) surfboard design software is the standard computer aided surfboard design software. The design program has been designed purely from a shapers perspective, as though he was in his room shaping. Our goal has been to the 'character/style' of the shaper. Not just an original surfboard numerically.
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Aku Shaper Software is very user friendly. You do not have to be too computer literate to use this program or operate the machine. Features:.Thousands of unique users worldwide making Aku Shaper software the standard in surfboard design.70+ Aku Shaper machines around the world using the program see map,.Best usability of any surfboard design system.Free fully functional design version.Experienced software developers with ongoing dedication to feature additions and improvements you can now.
I bit the bullet and decided to make this, posting pictures and snippets of info because i found other posts on this topic very extremely helpful! Mostly info on fibre types and resin rations, vacuum pressures and general windsurf nonsense!! Ive had this board in my head for a few years, i think boards are to long, Ive taken parts i have liked off the many freestyle boards ive owned, and a few ideas of my own for the sake of it!!
Maximum volume, minimum length, heel gutters and completely flat deck to the nose for maximum volume. Rocker is copied directly from dads naish hybrid slalom thing, i figure rocker is to important to mess with and this board is also 215ish vacuum pump following designs on seabreeze, its a modern fridge motor which has a time delayed relay so it will put itself to sleep for 3min if it turns on to frequently, not a problem with good vacbag rocker table is two old chairs screwed together, perfect. 3mm kleegercell and carbon on with zero stress. I cant see the point of mast tracks, I always screw it in the middle and deal with it, never have any problems. So i have glued the nut straight into the deck with plenty of carbon, a strip of meranti hardwood., This board is not over engineered. I didnt want to subscribe to the awful finbox systems and expensive fins which i cut down anyway, so i made some out of marine ply, laminated in carbon and fibreglass. They are also weedfins because lake illawarra has loads of weed in the shallow bits.
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Inside vacuum bag under loads of vacuum. I snap alot of fin screws, and rip inserts out and crack boards across the weak insert area. So this is the only part of the board over engineered, These are finbolts set upside down into the deck, with washers to spread the load. Minor holes drilled into the deck, which is alot less than the hole required for inserts. Epic the fins are glued into the board, there ws no reinforcements in this aerea apart from an extra layer of carbon on the bottom, the fins go all the way up to the deck so the whole structure of the board is used. They are only about 13cm so should be strong enough.
It goes fine, as expected, its heavily influenced from the F2 rodeo and tabou 90 and skate. Its 10cm shorter than the rodeo and the rocker line is from the naish hybrid.
There was no reason to think it wouldnent work. The only thing m worried about is if i had enough resin under the pvc foam, it was all wetted out but the board is really really light. I will probably snap it but thats a really easy fix. I forgot to list prices!
Because i used no store bought inserts like mast track an finbox the price was pretty low for the board itself, about $400 i reckon on materials actually used IN teh board (lots of carbon). But i spent a fair bit more on stuff like resin and carbon and fibreglass which i still have plenty of left for the next board, I got the foam blank (4 boards worth) from a local supplier and the rest from FGI in sydney, they deliver everything next day. Also tools like the vacuum compressor and hotwire cutter and vacuum bagging stuff adds up. The fins were easy!, I bought some 6mm marine ply from bunnings, 1200x600x6. And the carbon and epoxy I bought from FGI composites in sydney, the carbon I used was bi weave 200g, but in a longer fin it might be worth playing with the unidirectional stuff. Its all about $45 per meter.
I also used some fiberglass 130g. The resin I used for the whole project was FGIs own brand. I bought 5L resin and 1L hardener for $90ish but there were smaller volumes available. I shaped the fins with a belt sander for the rough stuff, and a hand sanded the rest, making them a little narrower than I needed, Ive shaped a lot of fins so this bit was easy, but on a longer fin a little extra attention to accuracy wouldn't hurt. Then I laminated everything together, after that I sanded them back and filled over the fins again with micro spheres mixed with epoxy which sands really well. (that was $30 for half a kilo!
Which is fairly excessive amount I now have a life supply) I also used a vacuum bag to set the fins some plastic, tackey tape, peelply, breather fabric were used, all available from FGI. I followed the instructions on seabreeze for the vacuum pump from a fridge compressor, I found a pile of fridges at the local revolve, $5 for the motor, and the vac advance and pressure gauge from a wrecker. All under $50 just as the article says. Vacuum bagging affect could be achieved with sandbags or something simmilar. But I already had it for the board, Its a pretty neat piece of equipment, there are videos on Youtube about vacbagging model airplane wings which are worth a look.
Hope that helps! Hi Barn, good job, final weight is real good.
I guess you saved a bit by avoiding mast tracks, strap inserts and fin boxes.good sideways thinking there! What density polystyrene did you use for the blank?
A money saving tip for any other home buildrs out there. I use gardeners shade cloth for breather and rip stop nylon for peel ply.
I get rip stop from a dress makers store, they use it for the lining in suits etc.just make sure you can breathe thru it and that it doesn't rip easily. Lots cheaper than buying the real deal from the marine industry and works great.
Yes there is 130g fiber glass between the PVC and the foam. Also under the PVC foam there is 200g carbon around the straps and up to the 'mast nut' for extra strength. And also a double layer of glass on the bottom between the straps.
The foam blank was 13kg/m3. I bought a huge block from a local distributors, It felt heavy so I weighed the block when I got it home with accurate scales and it was spot on. I cut the blank using a hotwire cutter for the deck and rocker, using two templates. Hotwire cutter was made from guitar string, (the heaviest duty plain string at music shop), an ARC welder for power supply and a 'drop down resistor' made by setting up six 50W down lights in series.
The old man worked out the circuit on paper and I just followed instructions, pretty much perfect settings 1st attempt. Hotwire cutter frame $8, guitar string $2.50 and disco box resistor (8 down lights 50W, $11) vintage arc welder I found in the shed, priceless! I cut the outline first using AKU shaper to give me the outline, and the rest of shaping was done with a surform, a belt sander, and some gauze stuff from bunnings.
The consumables weren't that expensive, peelply is $3 a meter, vacuum bag film is $5pm for a 90mm wide tube. And breather fabric is $2.50 for 1x1.5m2. Are the fabrics from dressmakers much cheaper? Always happy to save more dollars I am considering finishing the paint work, one day, but I kinda like the carbon finnish tho, it feels like a soviet military prototype. Hey there, I have a desire to make my own freestyle board as well. As it would be my first board I got some questions regarding shaping and laminating. Regarding shape of the blank: - thinking of tail rocker about 2-3mm - nose rocker is a question for me.
Would arround 15cm be to high? - viewing full length rocker line. Would it mean earlier planing whether I move lowest point of the curve more forward? - thinking of making elypse shape when viewing from top (opinions?) Laminating: my Idea was - blank, 1 layer of 110g/m^2 fiberglass, Airex foam- 3mm thick, 1 layer of 110g fiberglass, 1 layer of 160g carbon fiber, strengthening nose, rails with kevlar fiber (of course also reinforcing the mast and footpad area with kevlar directly on the blank Now.
I am not sure whether the fiberglass under the Airex foam is necessary or not. Regarding inserts, I can get them all for about 50€ (70$).just for information, I would like to have carbon fiber on top, and just put transparent protection, so the fabric would be seen through. I seek your opinions and advice, thank you in advance guys.
Good job barn. I couldnt comment on rocker, this one has a rocker off a slalom board, and its similar to my flare which has an Isonic rocker. Would I move the 2mm point forward or back? I dunno, I figure the boys in maui have got that bit sorted. The elliptical outline would work, but there is no reason the front should look same as the back (think slalom boards and surfboards. And fish, horses and birds for that matter!) your materials sound good, I have no experience with kevlar, Im not even sure its superior to carbon?? Others may know this??
I wouldnt skip the fibre glass under the 3mm PVC. Its creates a composite construction out of the 3mm. If u left it out there would be no extra strength in the skin. It is integral for strength, if u want to save weight loose more off the top layer.
Kinda hard to explain, I had a freestyle that had the fibreglass under the 3mm crack and the deck collapsed. Heres a diagram i prepared earlier!! Hope that helps. I couldnt comment on rocker, this one has a rocker off a slalom board, and its similar to my flare which has an Isonic rocker. Would I move the 2mm point forward or back?
I dunno, I figure the boys in maui have got that bit sorted. The elliptical outline would work, but there is no reason the front should look same as the back (think slalom boards and surfboards. And fish, horses and birds for that matter!) your materials sound good, I have no experience with kevlar, Im not even sure its superior to carbon?? Others may know this?? I wouldnt skip the fibre glass under the 3mm PVC.
Its creates a composite construction out of the 3mm. If u left it out there would be no extra strength in the skin. It is integral for strength, if u want to save weight loose more off the top layer. Kinda hard to explain, I had a freestyle that had the fibreglass under the 3mm crack and the deck collapsed. Heres a diagram i prepared earlier!! Hope that helps Thank you for your advice. So to your suggestion I would loose the fiberglas layer on top of the sandwich foam?
Would 1 layer of carbon be sufficient? Regarding Kevlar. It is way more resistant to direct hits than carbon. So as for carbon concerns.
It prevents breakage of the board in half, for example. I plan to use kevlar just on rails, nose and under foot pads to prevent denting of the deck beneath my feet. About the rocker line, I try to avoid the slalom type, because they are supposed to get planing slower than FS boards, so I will have to ask arround a bit more. Maybe even approximately copy Fanatic skate's rocker or sth.
Recently, I received a comment on requesting that I describe a little bit about how I went about doing the tail on the (which I was in the middle of working on when I was so rudely interrupted by local thieves). So, I'll try to describe here what I did (and did wrong) as requested. As with everything I do, this is by no means the best or 'right' way, its just how I happened to do it.mostly by feel and guesswork. Hehe The tail was pretty easy actually, but really the one pictured in the Datsun Twinnie is only half done, it still needs lots of fine tuning.
For one thing, I should have started by thinning down the blank a bit more near the tail closer to desired thickness. As you can see, the tail is a bit chunkier than it probably should be. But, in any case, once the blank's tail area is down to thickness, you can draw in the outline. For the outline, I used the nose portion on the board's original template to draw in the swallow from the edge to the stringer on the bottom of the blank. I think lots of people have special templates for swallows, but there's something nice about being able to reuse the nose portion of the original template for drawing in the tail. Reusability is always nice.:) Cutting in the tail would've been nice if I had an electric jigsaw, but I used a small handsaw instead, stopping just short of the middle of the stringer from each side. Then by hand, snap off the cutout.
After cutting it out, I then took a small (rattail) rounded file to file in the 'buttcrack'. After that, it's really just a matter of using a small surform and sanding block to sculpt the contour of the tail to blend in with the crack. When finish sanding the stringer/crack, it helps to protect the foam with some masking tape along the edge of the stringer so that you don't sand into the foam. Well, thats about it. Sorry I don't have progress pics, but maybe next time.whenever that will be. Bad news for Novice Shaper fans, I've decided to vacate my shaping room space as a result of another break in (second in six months) while I was away enjoying warm Hawaiian waves earlier this month.
Nothing was stolen, except a $20 radio and some piece of mind. Amazing what a crack head will do to for a few bucks. Well, its all good cause I wasn't anticipating on glassing much over the winter in a freezing garage anyways, and firing up a portable heater in a room with lots of flammable goodies wasn't a thrilling option either.
I'm sure I'll find another space soon, till then, the shaping room and all the equipment will reside in storage. Hope to be back up and running soon. A friend of mine recently asked me to shape him something for the mushy slop-surf that we typically get here in the NY/NJ area. After telling him that my just about tripled my wave count over my everyday shortboard, he was sold on a twin fin.
So last week we began on what will eventually be known as The Datsun Twinnie (named in honor of his band, and their recent debut release). The shape is basically a scaled up version of my Brom, with a few tweaks here 'n there. Still needs work, but here's the progress thus far. The nose needs work, gonna add a beak nose. Ideally, I should've cut in the beak while cutting the top rail bands, but I didn't figure this out till reading Swaylocks afterwards. Future owner and Red Datsun band member.
The tail, not quite there yet, but its a start. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like I'll be able to finish this one anytime soon, I'm leaving this week for the North Shore and two weeks of Hawaiian surf. Hopefully I'll have some pics of Hawaii to post, along with the finishing stages of the Datsun Twinnie. Just a few random thoughts that have been floating around my head lately.
First up, here's a pic of my neighborhood hardware store's garbage pile from the other day, see anything interesting? The baby blue slabs in the middle of the pic are slabs of. A friend of mine decided that it would be cool to 'borrow' a few (.or six) to make into surfboards. The dims of the 'blanks' are 7'10' x 24' x 3' and flawless.
I don't know anything about epoxy yet, but I assume we'd need to glue in some stringers, go stringerless, or as my friend would like, add carbon parabolic stringers (which is way beyond me). According to my friend, this is the same stuff that those blue Salomon (sp?) boards are skinned with. The stuff is super light and feels like they would shape easily. But, there are a few things I'm uncertain of: 1) In order to accomodate rocker, seems like we'd need to glue together some blocks near the nose/tail regions to increase thickness.
What kind of glue is used for this? 2) Speaking of glue, what kind of glue is used to glue up blanks and stringers?
3) Why was there a big black SUV with tinted black windows following us as we carried our 'borrowed' foam back to our apartments? And why did he stop in front of my building while staring at us in an unfriendly manner??? Should be interesting to see what becomes of this blue foam. I feel guilty about taking the foam for some reason.
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My friend assures me that its garbage, but I can't see why they'd throw out perfectly good foam. I'm not entirely convinced its good karma to make surfboards out of stolen garbage.or maybe it is, in a weird recycling kind of way.
(Chris, any bad karma resulting from all of this is your fault!) On the shaping front, not much going on with me these days, just working on a twinnie fish (my first one) for a friend. Pics of that project to come later. Till then, here are some pics of a friend of mine who is guest-shaping a fish for himself. It'll be his #001 and will have glasson bamboo twin keels. Oh, and one last thing.
I happen to stumble upon a that shows how to use the new LokBox (non-vacuum) installation kit. Thanks to NYSurfer for this great resource!
Thats it for now. Say a prayer for all those close to the fires in SoCal.especially. Sorry for the lack of updates, but I'd like to take a moment to introduce you to one of my new projects. Its called: 'The Rehabilitation of a Mandala' (forgive me Manny!). Long story short, a friend and I were going opposite directions and we collided. It was only my second day on the board, and I was paddling out, while he was dropping in. The rest I'll leave to your imagination.
Here are some pics to help you visualize. A view from the bottom. Hmm, whats that strange white line on the left side?
Closeup of the 'white line'. My friend's fin did some serious damage, the fin gash is about 4 inches long. Pretty clean cut though. I get chills thinking about what it would've felt like if it was my head instead. Interestingly, you can see where the cutlap separated from the bottom lam. And rounding the rail, you'll see that the fin penetrated straight through to the deck.
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On the deck side, there are these slabs of glass that got pulled up and away from the foam. Probably as the fin exited, its tip caught the edge of the glass and pulled it up. Nice how straight it peeled up, and in a perfect rectangular shape too. Nice clean fin cut, looks like it was cut with a knife. I wonder if I'll be able to color match the ding repair. Actually, screw the color match, I wonder if I'll be able to match the wax job!?!
All in all, I'm not upset.(that doesn't sound like denial, does it?) Actually, when it happened, I knew I could fix it so I didn't get all bent outta shape. In fact, my friends actually got more upset than I did. Knowing how to shape and glass, having the space to do so, and having the supplies makes dings like this much less stressful (and cheaper) than before.
Most of all I'm thankful that I'm still healthy and alive. If it was my head instead, well.lets not go there.
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